This one is spalted birch. My last milliput bowl was a bust. This time I cut the channels in the first layer much deeper and spent about 45 minutes packing the white layer into the black. I also hollowed under the rim with a gooseneck carbide tool.
This time around I’m doing things differently. I’m using a lighter colored wood (Maple?) and layering clear resin over a thin layer of blue colored resin. I also used Alumilite rather than Art Resin.
This thing is just beautiful! I hope it works.
Okay it’s a learning process. There are sharks embedded in this epoxy. All the sharks are pointed toward a baby which is sawed in half and there’s supposed to be blood in the H2O. There are lots of problems though. The epoxy is super scratched up, and you can’t see through it,. This bowl is a fail. Shark attack 2.0 coming soon.
I used high gloss spray lacquer on this large maple bowl. It’s ugly and pretty at the same time. I turned this from a big, green hunk of maple.
I realized in writing this that I had no idea whether nightlight is one word, hyphenated (night-light), or separate words (night light). I'm going with nightlight. Here’s third I’ve turned. This one is on my bedside table as my actual night light. As you can see from my echo clock, it’s farking freezing here today.
awww ja! This thing gets crazy hot. I think it’s going to have a bit of a learning curve. I farked up multiple times before getting this good impression. Making sure it’s not too hot and that you are pressing evenly on all sides seems to be the key.
This came out super nicely. I used my new gooseneck hollowing tool to get really far under the rim. This allowed me to create a really unconventional bowl shape. This is plain old birch wood. It’s lovely! When I started this bowl, it had lots of cracks in it, and I was just going to practice on it and then trash it. It surprised me and turned into my favorite.
Milliput is some neat stuff. It’s a clay epoxy. I’m working here on using the milliput to create a two-tone inlaid rim on a shallow mahogany bowl. Here are some pics of the process. I turned it rough and cut a groove. I packed the groove with terra cotta colored milliput and let set for 72 hours. Then I turned off the mulliput on the sides of the ring and cut two channels. I cut a bunch of notches in the milliput and then packed it with a new layer of white milliput making sure I filled all the notches and grooves. It looks like a frosted donut that would kill you if you ate it. I cut the crap out of myself multiple times and ended up turning off too much of the milliput when I reached the “reveal” stage. As such, I ended up with an ugly bowl which I’ll probably pawn off to my lab as a paper clip holder. Next time, i need a much finer dremel bit and the red channel needs to be deeper and wider.
Every time I turn I end up somehow cutting my hand. Today I cut it with the Dremel when I was trying to cut a groove in epoxy. There’s blood all over the chuck that I didn’t even notice until after I took it off the lathe. It looks like some kind of murder weapon.
God this thing is ugly! Behold a doughnut chuck. The bottom of a bowl sticks out of the doughnut hole so that you can turn off the tenon. This (hopefully) is a safer alternative to Cole Jaws or a Longworth chuck, although one might imagine the wingnuts whipping around at 2000rpm might present a bit of danger.
This thing is cool. It turns the tailstock of the lathe into a drill. I’m looking forward to trying this out.
I purchased a swan neck, carbide hollowing gouge. It’s a little harrowing to work with, but it produces a nice undercut along the ridge of the bowl. Here’s a green and yellow epoxy inlay on a maple bowl. I still haven’t figured out how to get a glassy surface on the resin — anybody have any advice?
I started with a large and beautiful spalted maple bowl blank. It had a little crack in the side which opened into a huge crack. I then turned it smaller and smaller until the crack was gone. The result? A bowl that fits about 6 M&M’s.
I can’t cut a circle on a bandsaw to save my life, and it’s not for a lack of trying. I also still don’t know how to use a table saw well and have to beg for help every time I want to cut something.
It’s a little bold at this point, but so what. I commissioned Martin, a machinist in the Czech Republic, to craft a wood brand. I plan to burn my logo into the stuff I turn at Philadelphia Woodworks from now on. Check out his Etsy store — It’s vonHanke . This is actually the brain logo from my laboratory at Temple, but it makes for a great wood logo too. The branding iron is electric (110v/150watt) and to the best of my knowledge it is in the mail as we speak. Thank you, Martin!
I adapted this idea from a similar approach using concrete as a base. This is Black Walnut turned round with a cuplike bottom. I drilled a hole and stuffed the guts of the LED string lights through the bottom into a vase. The raw materials for this nightlight were $20 or so.
No soup for this bowl. In an earlier post, I described an Ambrosia Maple bowl I got impatient with and turned while it was still green. As the bowl subsequently dried out, it warped into an oval. I decided to go ahead and experiment on it and do some cutouts. I laid out a random pattern of blobs using a sharpie, then used a router bit on a Dremel to contour the shapes. Then there was LOTS of hand sanding followed by a coat of Danish Oil.
There’s a weird nook in my basement drywall that I turned into a wood drying kiln. I lined the little box with thermal insulation and hung a 75 watt bulb. The kiln stays roughly 90 degrees. I ordered a little solar fan, so I am hoping it facilitates the drying process. I need to do some tweaking with this — Maybe it’s too hot or a I shouldn’t have scraped off the wax from the bowl blanks but a bunch of the birch blocks cracked badly. That said, it’s working remarkably well otherwise. The Maple started at 35% moisture content and was down to 10% in two weeks.
This wood is amazing! I turned it from a 6” x 6” x 3” blank and finished it with EEE & Shellawax. This finishing combination yields an incredibly glossy surface that remains pretty darn glossy into posterity.